evening jacket

Elsa Schiaparelli, 1890 - 1973



evening jacket

Elsa Schiaparelli 1890 - 1973

Summary

Black wool lavishly embroidered in gold metal strip and gold thread with an exotic design of palm trees and flower heads, highlighted with sequins and seed pearls.Narrow front panel with black silk covered buttons to fasten Lined black crepe. In 1936 there was a show of Napoleonic paintings in Paris including some representing his Egyptian campaign. This apparently impressed Schiaparelli, hence her use of the palm tree motif. Label: ‘Schiaparelli, London’. Marlene Dietrich bought the same model of jacket for 1000 francs, and Schiaparelli herself wore one for the opening of the play 'Fric-Frac' in Paris. American Vogue for 1 Dec 1936 reported that two other society women (apart from Schiaperelli herself) wore the jacket: 'Mrs Bryon Foy wears it with a day-length skirt for cocktail parties; and Mrs Harry Luce wore it with a full length skirt and without a hat to the opening of 'Tovarich'. Schiaparelli used gold embroidery as a theme throughout the later 1930s. She commissioned Albert Lesage to improve the production of more pliable flat metal ribbon and also to develop a spiral twisted metal thread (both used here). The flat ribbon was stitched over a fabric padding to give a remarkable raised effect. Schiaparelli's London store opened in November 1933 and closed in 1939. Purchased with generous funding from V&A/MLA purchase grant (50%) and Friends of Manchester Art Gallery (50%)


Object Name

evening jacket

Creators Name

Elsa Schiaparelli

Date Created

1936

Dimensions

L: 61cm

accession number

2009.132

Collection Group

costume
womenswear

Place of creation

London

Medium

Legal

© Manchester Art Gallery


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