Catwalk outfit in flecked red and blue tweed, Autumn-Winter, 1995-96, Labelled ( front, right mesh lining) 'Yamamoto, size S', with second external label at back of neck. The dress features a deconstructional appraoch throughout with exposed bound seams and raw frayed edges, large press stud fasteners, and a rear bustle panel with tape bow, Lined with black mesh which features externally. Separate black nylon crin petticoat tying to the front to support pleated bustle. Yohji Yamamoto was born in 1943 in Tokyo, graduating with a fashion degree in 1969. He presented his first collection in 1981 in Paris. He was part of the new Japanese influence in couture and was known for his avant garde approach with oversized shapes and complex layering. He was also very interested in history, both traditional Japanese, and also, as here, Western. This costume shows Yamamoto at his most historic, referencing the Victorian bustle dresses of the mid 1870s. (for example 2016.36) though with a raised hemline.
Purchased with the aid of a Collecting Cultures grant from the National Lottery Heritage Fund
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