archery jacket

Summary

Lincoln green plain weave worsted, lined with glazed salmon pink plain weave worsted and trimmed with black velvet. High round neck with high turn-down collar, faced with black velvet; fronts each in one section extending to back side seam, with curved front edges, fastening centre front with two metal hooks and eyes; horizontal band forming artificial pocket flap left and right front; back in two sections narrowing to hem, below low-set shoulder seams, with centre back seam open 25 cm above hem; long sleeves, each in two narrow curved sections shaped at elbow, ending in separate shaped black velvet cuff fastening with button (missing) at outer wrist; centre fronts edged with wide band of black velvet each with eight decorative buttons (missing), pocket bands each edged with black velvet and trimmed with button; lower front edges and back vent edges each trimmed with triangle of salmon pink in form of turn back lining edged with black velvet and corner trimmed with black velvet heart; upper parts of sleeves trimmed with deep band of black velvet at armhole, separate band of black velvet across each shoulder from neck to armhole (one missing) buttoned to neck with velvet-covered buttons; body lined with pale salmon pink glazed worsted; large pocket in right side; sleeves lined with white plain weave cotton; inside upper back marked "Golden Grove CPM to Edwin Morgan 1923". See also J. Townsend - Lucas Collection (British Museum), image of Royal British Bowmen, 1822.

Display Label

The tradition of wearing Lincoln or "Sherwood Forest" green for archery dress, alluding to Robin Hood and his exploits, continued well into the nineteenth century (see man's jacket of about 1820 below), but darker greens and black were common by the 1880s. Male and female archery clothing in the nineteenth century generally followed the current fashionable silhouette, but included specific accessories such as a belt or sash to hold arrows and a shooting glove to protect the fingers. Archery was a sport of skill and precision suitable for both men and women, with participants aiming arrows at distant boards or "targets". As a pastime, it became extremely popular during the eighteenth century, with a renewed interest from the 1820s, especially for women players. Indeed, archery was considered to be one of the few suitable sporting amusements for women from the early nineteenth century until the 1880s. Women were encouraged to concentrate on their poise as much as for their talent, and a fine figure could cause much admiration, wearing an alluring outfit whilst holding a bow and aiming the arrow. (see below for the Punch cartoon "The Fair Toxophilites" from the middle 1860s)George Eliot commented in 1876 in her novel Daniel Deronda "who can deny that bows and arrows are among the prettiest weapons in the world for feminine forms to play with?"