archery jacket

Summary

Lincoln green glazed worsted and salmon pink glazed worsted, lined with white glazed linen, trimmed with black and white silk. V-neck with turndown collar in black corded silk, forming a downward point at back; fronts each in one bias-cut section curving sharply down at centre back to form pleated basque, with small gusset at curve; back in two sections with centre back seam, below low set shoulder seams, narrowing towards hem and then widening to form pleated basque; short oversleeves each in one section seamed under arm; long undersleeves in salmon pink worsted partly attached at armhole, each in two narrow curved sections, angled at elbow and open at back seam for 10cm above lower edge, with shaped band of black corded silk around lower edge forming cuff, and vertical band black silk edging opening, fastening with two black silk covered buttons; bodice and undersleeves lined with white glazed plain weave linen; 26cm bone each side centre back seam; collar trimmed band white silk and edged box pleated white silk frill; bodice front edges trimmed band of black on wider band white silk; basque edged band of white on band of black silk; upper sleeve edged band white silk and box pleated black silk frill; cuff edged at top band green silk; metal button on outside cuffs (left one missing) with raised lettering "ROYAL BRITISH BOWMEN" and "ICH DIEN" and engraved motif of arrow, bow and horn over three feathers and crown; inside right back shoulder marked "LM BOWMEETING DRESS 1794"

Display Label

Archery like most sports, requires freedom of movement and demands considerable exertion, so that sporting clothes even as early as the 1790s, and even for women, had to reflect this need. Although this green glazed worsted archery jacket has been fitted very tightly to the wearer's body, the pink undersleeves are attached only at the top of the sleeve openings, leaving the rest of the sleeve to hang loose. This innovative construction detail would have allowed the wearer to move her arms far more freely than in corresponding daywear. There is only a single remaining metal button on the jacket, and it is inscribed with the Royal British Bowmen and the motto "ICH DIEN" with a motif of crown, bow, arrow and bugle. As early as 1787, The Royal British Bowmen allowed women full membership, with voting rights and an official uniform, and this is a very early survival of this outfit.